Hydroponics is one of the easiest ways to grow fresh food indoors, especially in Canada, where winter can feel long and outdoor gardens are on pause. It’s clean, efficient, and once you understand the basics, it becomes a simple routine you can repeat all year.
This guide breaks hydroponics down into plain language: what it is, why people love it, what you actually need to get started, and how to keep plants thriving without turning it into a science project.
What is hydroponics (and what it isn’t)?
Hydroponics is growing plants without soil. Instead, plants get what they need through:
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Water
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Nutrients (plant food dissolved in water)
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Oxygen at the roots (this is a big deal)
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A support medium (optional), like rockwool, clay pebbles, coco coir, or sponge plugs
In soil, plants search for water and nutrients. In hydroponics, you deliver those directly, so growth can be faster and more controlled.
Hydroponics is not:
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“No work” (it’s less weeding, but more checking)
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“Set it and forget it forever” (you’ll do quick weekly maintenance)
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Automatically “easier” (it’s just more predictable once you learn the routine)
Common home hydroponic styles
You don’t need to memorize these, this is just to help you choose a method that fits your space.
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Kratky (no pump): roots grow down into nutrient water
Best for: leafy greens, herbs, beginners who want simple -
DWC (Deep Water Culture): roots sit in water, with an air pump adding oxygen
Best for: beginners who want faster growth and stability -
Ebb & Flow (Flood & Drain): tray floods with nutrient solution and drains back
Best for: growing more plants at once -
Drip systems: nutrient solution drips into each plant site
Best for: larger setups and people who like tinkering -
NFT (Nutrient Film Technique): thin stream of nutrient water flows through channels
Best for: leafy greens; needs steady flow and attention
Beginner-friendly recommendation: Kratky or DWC.
Why people love hydroponics (benefits + realistic expectations)
Hydroponics can be a game-changer if you want fresh greens indoors.
Benefits you’ll notice:
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Faster growth (especially leafy greens)
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Less mess indoors (no soil, fewer spills)
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More control over light, nutrients, and watering
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Year-round growing in Canada
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Small-space friendly (kitchens, apartments, basements, garages)
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Efficient water use (many systems recirculate water)
The honest expectation: you trade “weeding” for a quick weekly check-in.
What you need to start (without overspending)
You can keep hydroponics very simple. Here are the core pieces.
Must-have basics
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Container/reservoir (bucket, tote, jar, or ready-made unit)
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Net pots or a way to hold the plant
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Hydroponic nutrients (a complete formula made for hydro)
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Light source (a sunny window can work for herbs/greens; grow lights are more reliable)
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Water
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pH test method (minimum)
Strongly recommended (especially for DWC)
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Air pump + air stone (adds oxygen, improves plant health)
Nice-to-haves
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Timer for consistent lighting
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Thermometer (room/reservoir temps)
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Fan for airflow (helps prevent mildew and strengthens stems)
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EC/PPM meter (measures nutrient strength)
The 7 basic needs of plants (hydroponics edition)
Plants need the same things in soil or water. Hydro just lets you control them directly.
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Light – intensity + duration
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Water – delivers nutrients
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Nutrients – macro + micronutrients consistently
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Oxygen – roots need air; stagnant water = stress
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CO₂ – normal room air is fine
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Temperature – too cold slows growth; too hot increases stress/algae risk
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Support/structure – net pots, trellises, or medium replace soil support
Nutrient solutions made simple
A nutrient solution is just water mixed with plant nutrients in the right concentration so plants can “drink” their food.
Macro vs micro nutrients
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Macros: N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S
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Micros: iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper, molybdenum (tiny amounts, big impact)
Two measurements that matter most
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pH = how acidic/basic the solution is
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EC/PPM = how strong the nutrient solution is
Beginner-friendly target ranges:
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pH: 5.5–6.5 for most hydro crops
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EC/PPM: varies by plant (greens/herbs lower, fruiting plants higher)
Mixing nutrients safely (important)
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Add nutrients to water (not water to nutrients)
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If using 2-part nutrients, never mix concentrates together before adding to water
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Stir well, wait a few minutes, then measure
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Start lighter if unsure, you can always increase
Lighting: the part that makes or breaks indoor hydro
If nutrients are food, light is the engine.
Plants need:
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Intensity (brightness at leaf level)
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Duration (hours per day)
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Distance (too far = weak growth, too close = stress)
Simple signs to watch for:
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Leggy/stretchy = light too weak or too far away
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Bleached/curling = light too intense or too close
A timer is your best friend: consistent “day/night” schedules keep plants stable.
Creating a balanced growing environment
Hydroponics is about balance. Aim for a steady “plant-friendly” zone.
Key factors:
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Temperature: comfortable room temps are usually fine
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Humidity: too high + low airflow can invite mildew
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Airflow: strengthens plants and helps prevent fungus
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Cleanliness: algae and pests love neglected corners
Reservoir tips:
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Keep the reservoir out of direct light (light hitting water = algae)
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Keep lids closed and surfaces clean
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In DWC, make sure you have steady bubbling for oxygen
Care routine: what success actually looks like
Most people succeed with hydroponics because they follow a simple routine.
Daily (1–2 minutes)
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Quick look at leaves (color, droop, pests)
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Check water level and top up if needed
Weekly (10–20 minutes)
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Check pH
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Check EC/PPM (if you have a meter)
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Adjust nutrients or top up with water
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Wipe lids and edges (prevents algae)
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Trim dead leaves; tidy roots if needed
Every 2–4 weeks
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Refresh the reservoir (especially for small systems)
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Light clean of container, air stone, tubing (if used)
Harvest tip: harvest herbs often for bushier growth, and avoid removing more than about 1/3 at once.
Common issues (and easy fixes)
Yellow leaves
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Often: pH off, nutrient imbalance, not enough light
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Fix: check pH → check strength → evaluate lighting
Wilting with wet roots
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Often: oxygen issue (stagnant water)
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Fix: add aeration or adjust roots so they aren’t suffocated
Algae (green slime)
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Cause: light hitting nutrient water
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Fix: block light, clean surfaces, keep reservoir covered
Slow growth / leggy plants
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Cause: insufficient light or light too far away
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Fix: increase intensity, adjust distance, use a timer
Leaf burn (crispy edges)
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Cause: nutrients too strong, light too intense, heat stress
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Fix: lower EC/PPM slightly, raise light, improve airflow
What grows best in home hydroponics?
Great beginner plants:
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Lettuce, spinach, kale, arugula
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Basil, mint, cilantro, parsley
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Green onion
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Bok choy and other Asian greens
Intermediate (needs stronger light + patience):
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Strawberries
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Peppers
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Tomatoes (best with larger systems + strong lighting)
Quick start: your first 7 days
Day 1: Set up container + plant sites. Mix nutrients. Set light schedule.
Day 2–3: Check water level. Watch leaf posture and perkiness.
Day 4–5: Check pH once (learn what “normal” looks like).
Day 6–7: Take notes—any stretching, discoloration, fast growth?
Small improvements + consistency = success.
Mini glossary (so the terms don’t feel intimidating)
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pH: how acidic/basic your solution is
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EC/PPM: how concentrated your nutrient solution is
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Reservoir: container holding nutrient water
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DWC: deep water culture (roots in water + oxygen via air pump)
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Kratky: passive method (no pump), water level drops as plant grows
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Medium: what holds the plant (clay pebbles, rockwool, coco, etc.)
Ready to build your first hydroponic setup?
Shop hydroponic nutrients, growing media, net pots, lights, and starter supplies on our website: https://www.ritchiefeed.com
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